Actually the eyebolts, which are seen at the images are 2 mm longer, than the ones you have in your 3D model. In any case you will have to chamfer a little bit the thread after the shortening . Also with a long-hole instead of 13 mm hole, it will be even more easy to mount the second eyebolt at an angle .
The assembly is done in the following sequence:
1. Build the vertical distance stacks (DIN433+DIN988), so the bearings' outer raceways don't touch (around 0,1 mm clearence is enough) and you have the desired band-saw gap. It would be way easier if you have whole precise distances at hand, but that would require machining, which we tend to avoid.
2. Assemble (eyebolt)+(ver. dis-ce stack (put the DIN988 at the bearing side))+(0,1 mm filler-blade half circumference piece (or use original thin sheet for the purpose ))+(a bearing above it)+(0,1 mm DIN988 (optional, only if the DIN6340 frictions over the bearing)+(as mentioned, DIN6340). All of this mount together into the 12 mm hole. Try to angle it, with the most chamfered lenght of the thread end, towards the hole - maybe a weak hammering would be required .
3. Because with 12m6 pin you will create interference fit with the vertical bearing, you can use 12h8, but you will make even greater clearence with the 12H9 eybolt holes. So with 12m6 you will need some kind of d12,5xD18 pipe piece as an "anvil". Make the pin extend from the bearing not more than (1x side dis. stack + 1 mm). Put both side dis. stacks with the DIN988 lying over the bearing and all of this mount, with the more extended end of the pin, into the already inserted assembly from point 2.;
4. Mount the second eyebolt assembly (p. 2) following the same procedure and with the help of the "anvil", placed under the second eyebolt head, hammer the pin until it goes equal between the heads of the eyebolts.;
5. Now you can mount the rest DIN125 + DIN985 and push on fixers for the pin.
Well that's it .